It’s done, it’s done, it’s done!
Well, that armscye seam was neat, but then I faced the underarm-side seam version. Ummm, you want me to topstitch the bottom seam of a sleeve that’s already in a tube?? I checked both the Reader’s Digest Guide to Sewing and Vogue Sewing, and they both said the same thing. So deep breath, start at the bottom hem, and, to paraphrase Dori on Finding Nemo “Just keep sewing, keep sewing…”
Darned if it didn’t work. (That’s the sleeve getting inverted as I kept going along – the foot of the sewing machine is in the hole of the volcano!) My stitching line might have become wonky a couple of times there, but it worked!
One glaring error – I didn’t stitch back one side of the sleeve placket, so the cuffs wouldn’t lap one end over the other. Instead of going back and fixing it (well I did discover it after I’d made the buttonhole), DH volunteered to have the double buttonhole and use cufflinks. He owns no cufflinks. Besides, light poly cotton with wonky topstitching doesn’t really lend itself to formal ;).
I followed the McCalls instructions – which had me hand stitch the fold-over cuff closed on the inside, and zigzag finish the regular seams. DH is the kind of guy who rolls up his sleeves, so this doesn’t really look all that nice.
And I think my first attempt at using the rolled hem foot that came with my sewing machine – 1/8″!! Yeah, it’s hard to get that one going without feeding it too much seam allowance! Check out last weeks post about how I did the hem on the new shirt.
Details: Lightly based on McCalls 8409 size M (which looks like it’s out of print too – how can a classic men’s shirt pattern go out of print?) – lengthened a whole bunch through the sleeves, a bit in the body, shortened the yoke, and used his favourite shirt to create new patterns for the collar, cuffs, and pocket (I’d already misplaced the pattern pieces for the collar and the cuffs!). I like that the cuff is in two pieces (and the rounded edges are neat! Need a bit more practice on turning and topstitching all those curves though.) Note to self: also don’t have sleeve placket or buttonhole placket patterns (just cut out 1″x length of placket for the sleeves, and folded the cut-on placket to the front of the buttonhole side – which worked out fine because the fabric looked the same on both sides!). I ended up using the cheap Fabricland sew-in interfacing, because (a) the fabric was already fairly heavy (a stretch poplin from Wazoodle – which is both very stretchy and wrinkles when you look at it sideways – have to see how it works in the wild!), and (b) I get really annoyed at the bubbling that happens even on RTW shirts with fusible interfacing!!