(copied from Stitcher’s Guild SWAP post – this is the start of item #2 for my plan)
Men’s X-large shirt (yeah right ::) DH found it way too small!). The geometric print and darker colours seemed to scream “puffy sleeved blouse” to me for some reason – I’ve been looking forward to this project!
The pattern is Simplicity 5683, which I’ve made a couple of times before (including for the JCC). This time I wanted to keep the button-down collar, add gathering to the under-bust seam instead of the bust darts, and doing the proper elastic treatment on the puffed sleeves (the JCC version with the band and button was very cute, but rather restricting!).
But I sat for an hour or so trying to figure out what to do with the button band. See, I thought it would be neat to keep the curved hemline, which meant keeping the button band all the way down (had originally thought I’d have the bottom front sewed together, and the button band only on the top front, polo style) so that the front swoop would go as far down and the curves would meet at the same length at the sides. But now I ran into how do I account for the seam allowances for the under bust seam. If I just hack across, I’m going to have a hard time with all the extra thickness of the button band crammed into a seam right at the front edge.
And the button bands weren’t separate, they were sewn on to the face of the fabric, so I couldn’t remove them, then reattach:
So the plan I came up with was to leave the bands attached for the lower section, then cut a seam allowance on the side all the way up. The top pieces got cut out separately, with a trimmed seam allowance. The idea is to take out the top stitching on the inside edge of the button band, curl the band seam allowance under, and stick the top seam allowance inside, then redo the top stitching. Things are going to get tricky right at the band-bottom meeting point. I also tried to match the print on the top piece to where it’s going to line up to the bottom piece (centre bits before the gathering), but I don’t know how well that will work out.
I also had to redraft the collar opening to fit my neck but still use the collar (so it’s going to open up much farther down the front than it does in men’s shirts). Have no idea how that’s going to work out!
Keep your fingers crossed. There’s a lot of leaps here, and I haven’t even started sewing!