Lizette in the round

With the powers of the internet, I can peak up from under my pile of Thesis with a little “here’s what we’ve prepared earlier…”.

I actually started this post in January! I know there were other people wondering if they could do this great Anne Ginger pattern from Twist Collective in the round

Lizette, Spring/Summer 2011 Twist Collective

so I thought I’d make notes of what I did as I went along (see the end of this post). I now know why Anne didn’t write it in the round: it is just as simple to knit either way, but it’s much more torturous to write it out in the round!!

I found a red merino sweater in a second hand shop that had thicker cuffs and turtleneck collar by having the yarn doubled. I was on pins and needles to see if I’d manage to get the whole project made with the doubled yarn… it was exciting to see the amount left by the time I got to the sleeves that meant I could make them elbow length. The merino is buttery soft, but a bit warm for a cap sleeved sweater.

My Lizette Front View

My Lizette Back View

It’s been a go-to sweater in the early weeks of summer-by-the-calendar, but the heat has finally arrived here.

I really like it as-is, but I’d also like to make another one in a plant-based fibre, and lengthen it so that it is actually tunic-length, like the pattern sample shows. The proportions between the sample and this one are pretty similar, so I’m thinking it’s a size-of-the-sweater:size-of-the-model thing (aka, I need to make a size up and lengthen it to get that look).

In the round modifications follow. Enjoy your July, hopefully I’ll be back in August, with lots of repressed fibre mojo!

My Lizette

Modifications to do in the round:
Make the bottom cable panel double the back length, join ends together into a loop.
Pick up and knit double the stitches (= front + back), placing markers at the beginning of the round and half way through. The back instructions will be completed during the first half of the round, the front on the second half. These instructions are the same up until the waist.

For the bottom short rows, complete all of the instructions as written for the back, except the last purl row. Continue knitting to the front, and complete those instructions except the last purl row. Continue the last knit row all the way around, picking up the first set of wraps on both back and front. Knitting in the round is established again, continue through decrease rounds as written. Add one more decrease round to eat up the 4 extra stitches that the seams would have used.

Once the “work even” portion of the bottom is completed, work the short row empire waist shaping in the same way as the hem shaping – complete all of the rows* but the last purl pick up row, knit around the back then around the front, picking up the first set of wraps. [*make sure that the first wrap is placed 1 stitch less than written in the pattern, to take into account the lack of seam allowance stitch; the rest are in relation to this one, so can be done as written] Knit the back again, and once the front is reached, place all the front stitches on waste yarn or another circular needle for safe keeping, crochet cast-on the given number of stitches minus 2 with waste yarn on the needle, and continue knitting the round from the back along these cast-on stitches. Once back at the front again, do both left and right sets of short rows at the same time: follow the stitch count minus 1 for the first left front row (the instructions list right front first, because they start on a wrong side row – the left front is the same on the right side), wrap and turn, work the back, work the first wrong side row for the right front, wrap and turn. Continue to work each wrap row, remembering to add increases as written.

After the last w&t, do increase row, but replace all “p”s with “k”s, as we’re back on the right side. Remembering to subtract off one stitch, work cable chart as given (every other row is a knit row), and continue increases until final stitch counts are reached.

After round 23 of the cable chart, work the next row of the front, replacing all purls with knits and vice versa, as RS is facing still – purl through the front and back of the middle stitch, but don’t start a new ball yet. Start the armholes at the end of this round (binding off the required stitches for both front and back -2 (no seam) at each underarm), and finish the next round by working the “RS” row of the front (remembering to account for the removal of the underarm stitches), attaching a new ball for the second half. The back and fronts are now split and the rest of the pattern is worked as written. This starts the underarms a few rows early, but allows for working the cables on the fronts from the right side only.


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